Why it cuts both ways
The 2016 Forester (fourth generation) has a boxer 2.5-liter engine, standard all-wheel drive, excellent visibility, and real practicality — a lot of people's ideal do-everything SUV. Two things keep it out of the automatic-“yes” column: the FB25 engine's appetite for oil in this era, and a CVT that drew shudder-and-failure complaints (worst on the 2014–2015 cars, improved but not eliminated by 2016).
The two things to check
- FB25 oil consumption The 2.5-liter “FB25” engine of this era is prone to consuming oil faster than normal; left unwatched, low oil can lead to engine damage, and Subaru faced an oil-consumption class action over it. Check the oil level and condition, and ask how often it needs topping up.
- CVT behavior The continuously variable transmission was a weak point in this generation — shudder, jerking, or in worse cases failure, with an expensive repair. 2016 is better than the earliest cars, but a warm test drive that feels for shudder or hesitation is essential.
Open recalls — check the VIN, it's free
The 2016 Forester had a handful of recalls, including a brake-light-switch issue that can prevent the brake lights working and the transmission from shifting out of Park. All are VIN-specific — look up the exact car's open recalls free by VIN at NHTSA; a Subaru dealer completes any open recall at no charge.
What a history report tells you — and what it doesn't
On a car like this, the individual car's history is most of the decision. A history report is a record of what got reported — title brands, reported accidents and damage, odometer readings over time, and service records where they exist. That is what separates a clean, maintained example from a salvage-title or flood car wearing the same badge.
What a history report is not is a forecast, and an absence of records is not proof of a clean past — plenty happens to a car that never gets reported. That is why the honest answer is always the pair: the documented history and an in-person inspection by a mechanic you trust, on the specific car.
On this car, look for oil-change records and any documentation of oil-consumption checks or CVT service — they tell you whether the two known weak points were watched.
The things to check before you buy
- Oil level and consumption Check the dipstick, look for a low or dirty level, and ask how often it needs topping up.
- CVT on a warm drive Drive it long enough to warm up and feel for shudder, jerking, or hesitation.
- Service records Documented oil changes and any CVT service.
- Recall status Confirm the brake-light-switch and any other recalls are completed on this VIN.
- Accident and rust The usual panel and underbody checks.
What would make you walk
- An engine burning oil with no records Frequent top-ups or a low, dirty level and no maintenance history.
- A CVT that shudders or hesitates when warm This is the expensive failure — take it seriously.
- No service history On a car with two known weak points, that's a gamble.
- Structural damage or rust The usual deal-breakers.