Why it's a good car
The 2016 Accord is part of the ninth generation (2013–2017) — a genuinely dependable midsize sedan. Most run the 2.4-liter four-cylinder (Honda's Earth Dreams direct-injection engine, about 185 hp) paired with a CVT; a strong 3.5-liter V6 with a conventional six-speed automatic was also offered. Both engines use a timing chain, both are known for long life, and running costs are low. There is no systemic engine or transmission failure hanging over this car.
Does it have a timing belt or a timing chain?
A timing chain — on both the four-cylinder and the V6. There is no timing-belt interval or scheduled timing service to budget for.
What actually goes wrong
A few patterns come up, and all are checkable rather than fatal:
- Four-cylinder cold-start knock Some 2.4-liter cars tick or knock briefly right after a cold start, traced to the cam-chain tensioner; Honda has a service fix. Listen at a genuine cold start.
- V6 transmission judder V6 automatics can shudder between roughly 20 and 60 mph. Honda extended that component's warranty to eight years / 80,000 miles — a window that has now closed on a 2016 — so on a V6, confirm smooth, judder-free shifts.
- Minor electrical items Some LED daytime-running-light failures and 12-volt battery-drain complaints; neither is expensive, but check the lights work and the battery holds.
Open recalls — check the VIN, it's free
Two safety recalls are worth confirming on the specific car: a fuel pump (part of the wide Denso recall) that can fail and stall the engine, and a battery-sensor water-intrusion issue that can cause an electrical short. Recalls are VIN-specific — you cannot assume the status from the model year. Look up any 2016 Accord's open recalls free by VIN at the U.S. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA); a Honda dealer completes any open recall at no charge.
What a history report tells you — and what it doesn't
On a car like this, the individual car's history is most of the decision. A history report is a record of what got reported — title brands, reported accidents and damage, odometer readings over time, and service records where they exist. That is what separates a clean, maintained example from a salvage-title or flood car wearing the same badge.
What a history report is not is a forecast, and an absence of records is not proof of a clean past — plenty happens to a car that never gets reported. That is why the honest answer is always the pair: the documented history and an in-person inspection by a mechanic you trust, on the specific car.
The things to check before you buy
- Cold-start knock On a four-cylinder, listen at a true cold start for the cam-tensioner tick.
- V6 shifts Smooth, shudder-free acceleration, especially 20–60 mph, and a fluid-service record.
- Recall status Confirm the fuel-pump and battery-sensor recalls are completed on this VIN.
- Maintenance history Consistent oil and fluid services are what carry these past 200,000 miles.
- Accident and rust Sight down panels in raking light; on salt-belt cars, look underneath.
What would make you walk
- Poorly repaired structural damage Mismatched paint, uneven gaps, or ripples in the roof or pillars.
- A V6 judder that persists after service If a proper fluid service doesn't clear it, walk.
- Structural rust Perforation at the subframe or floor pans on a salted car.