Why it cuts both ways
The 2016 Crosstrek (first generation) is a raised, rugged-looking compact with standard all-wheel drive, good ground clearance, and real practicality — a lot of people’s ideal do-everything small car. It rates a little below the class for reliability this year, held back by two specific items: the FB20 engine’s appetite for oil, and a CVT that drew shudder-and-hesitation complaints.
The two things to check
- FB20 oil consumption Some 2.0-liter “FB20” boxer engines of this era consume oil faster than normal, often linked to piston-ring design; left unwatched, low oil can lead to engine damage. Check the oil level and condition, and ask how often it needs topping up.
- CVT behavior The continuously variable transmission drew complaints of vibration and shudder while accelerating, and a jerky feel merging or in stop-and-go traffic. Subaru later extended the CVT warranty (to 10 years / 100,000 miles) on affected cars — useful coverage that may still apply — but a warm test drive that feels for shudder or hesitation is still essential.
Open recalls — check the VIN, it's free
The 2016 Crosstrek had recalls, including a brake-light-switch issue that can prevent the brake lights working and the transmission from shifting out of Park. All are VIN-specific — look up the exact car’s open recalls free by VIN at NHTSA; a Subaru dealer completes any open recall at no charge.
What a history report tells you — and what it doesn't
On a car like this, the individual car's history is most of the decision. A history report is a record of what got reported — title brands, reported accidents and damage, odometer readings over time, and service records where they exist. That is what separates a clean, maintained example from a salvage-title or flood car wearing the same badge.
What a history report is not is a forecast, and an absence of records is not proof of a clean past — plenty happens to a car that never gets reported. That is why the honest answer is always the pair: the documented history and an in-person inspection by a mechanic you trust, on the specific car.
On this car, look for oil-change records and any documentation of oil-consumption checks or CVT service — and whether the CVT warranty extension applies to the specific VIN.
The things to check before you buy
- Oil level and consumption Check the dipstick, look for a low or dirty level, and ask how often it needs topping up.
- CVT on a warm drive Drive it long enough to warm up and feel for shudder, vibration, or hesitation.
- CVT warranty status Ask whether the extended CVT warranty (10 years / 100,000 miles) applies to this VIN.
- Recall status Confirm the brake-light-switch and any other recalls are completed on this VIN.
- Accident and rust The usual panel and underbody checks.
What would make you walk
- An engine burning oil with no records Frequent top-ups or a low, dirty level and no maintenance history.
- A CVT that shudders or hesitates when warm Take the vibration seriously, especially outside any remaining warranty.
- No service history On a car with two known weak points, that’s a gamble.
- Structural damage or rust The usual deal-breakers.